Ragù: how to find it in Roman dishes
Italian meat ragù is certainly one of the most beloved dishes of the Italian culinary tradition, easily associated with the warmth of home and a Sunday lunch with the family. From the Bolognese one, to the Neapolitan one, to the Apulian one, there are many regional variants that still preserve the core, consisting of meat cooked for many hours in tomato sauce. Origins The etymology of the term comes from the French word ragoût, meaning a medieval dish of stewed meat, originally used as an accompaniment to other dishes. Brought to Italy around 1300 with the proclamation of the Pope from Avignon to the Vatican, the dish was later assimilated and revisited into the recipe known to us today, becoming principally a condiment for various types of pasta. The first variant was the Neapolitan one, made in 1773 by Vincenzo Corrado, which however was still influenced by the French, making it more similar to a stew or braised meat; therefore the real origin of what we are familiar with today is attributed to the Bolognese version of 1891, formalised by the first recipe written by Pellegrino Artusi, which included ingredients such as: veal, celery, onion, carrot, pork belly, the addition of broth during cooking and sometimes milk. It was only in the first decade of the 20th century, however, that we got to the current recipe with the introduction of tomato sauce as an essential ingredient, wine blending and the replacement of macaroni with tagliatelle. Ragù in Roman cuisine Today, almost every region of the peninsula boasts its own reinterpretations and different applications of the iconic ragù, and our beloved capital is certainly no different. In this article we will tell you about three Roman dishes that pay homage to meat sauce in a decidedly original way that is faithful to tradition. Rigatoni with oxtail in tomato sauce Originally a poor and popular dish, today oxtail is to all intents and purposes part of the most typical Roman cuisine and is something you absolutely must try if you really want to immerse yourself in the flavours of tradition. Similar to the classic ragù, in order to acquire tenderness, the tail meat is left to cook in a tomato sauce seasoned with ingredients such as celery and cloves, for about six hours. The accompaniment to rigatoni is perfect, as this typical type of Roman pasta is particularly suitable for thick, full-bodied sauces, and a sprinkling of pecorino cheese with an intense, pungent flavour is used to finish it off. Lasagna Roman style Another perfect recipe for a Sunday lunch with the family, we reveal however that there is not just one way to prepare lasagna, as in Rome there is an entirely typical recipe (and it is still delicious). Forget the béchamel sauce, in this recipe it is the mozzarella cheese that takes its place and the sauce is richer in tomato, while the meat ragù remains one of the key elements to make this dish a true delicacy, consisting of: minced meat, onion, celery, carrot, tomato sauce, oil and salt. Supplì Not to be mistaken for arancine, the Roman supplì is an iconic elongated, fried rice ball, a perfect street food or appetiser. Again, its name originates from surprise, a term often exclaimed by French soldiers during the Napoleonic occupation at the end of the 18th century, who, after the first bite, were captivated by the discovery of its stringy filling, hidden by the crispy external breadcrumbs: composed of rice, mozzarella cheese and, of course, our star ragù sauce. Immerse yourself in tradition If we have impressed you with these traditional delicacies then we invite you to try some of these dishes, and many more, at Ragno D’Oro in Via Silla, 26 (RM). Contact us now to book your table!